Here is a pic of a gap model.
I then lay down some blue painters tape. I use that because it's easy to deal with since it's adhesive properties are not astronomical. I use this opportunity sometimes to measure out how much extra there is and cut it out.
I then flatten it out over the gap.
If there is still extra stuff I do not want there I cut it away while on the base.
After I pull away any excess I did not want it is ready to lay down the glue. I usually use 50/50 pva and water brushing it on with an old brush.
Then it's ready to be dipped in flocking of choice. it is important to note here that when I say "flock" I do not mean FLOCK but simply any basing material you may wish to use.
And there you have it. Gap was no problem. When the glue dries the other portions that are on the base instead of the tape will help hold it down even tho the tape does not adhere too well being painter's.
There are many other techniques. Corck material over most of the base (simulating a slab of stone) etc... This one is just a nice easy one in case you just want your bases to be mostly flat with "some" small form of flock.
There are many other techniques. Corck material over most of the base (simulating a slab of stone) etc... This one is just a nice easy one in case you just want your bases to be mostly flat with "some" small form of flock.
I have a sheet of really thin plasticard that I use. I cut a small strip to size, and then use plastic model glue to glue it in place. I started doing that after having some water effects leak through the stuff I had been using to fill the gap.
ReplyDelete@Garou: Indeed I have seen that and it's a great technique. I'll have to take that into account when I myself use some water effects for ice and such. Thanks!
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